When On and On launched the first collection in 2002, no one involved knew how the public would react to high fashion garments created from used clothing. "We were thinking, 'Who's going to believe in what we're doing? Will it be possible to do big production?' 2002 was wonderful year because the press went crazy. We were not expecting that."

Neither did Annie, a former model and Dior and Guess designer, expect to see her own outlook transformed along with her pieces. "I'm not the same person that I was then. When we started that project I didn't know -- I didn't do it because it was environmental. I was involved in fashion, and thought this was a cool idea. Then I started getting into the process. I wouldn't go back to regular fashion ever. It's not worth it. You're not making a difference when you make regular fashion. You need to feel like you're doing something right, something good."

Despite her dedication, the process of creating an entire line from previously used garments is clearly fraught with challenges large enough to make even the most determined give up. "I find it really, really hard to do this way. There are so many steps and it's not that glamorous and fun. But the final product is so amazing and unique! The customers get so many compliments and value having a story behind the garment. That helps keep us going."

Transforming Yesterday's Clothing
Annie designs each season's thirty styles before knowing what fabrics she'll use. Next, she rifles through used garments at one large facility, looking for quality fabrics and fitting color combinations. The clothes are then deconstructed, cut, sewn, and cleaned. All of this goes down before dealing with sales and distribution of one-of-a-kind re-used pieces.

"If we want to do a production of 30 - 100 items, it's got to be the same fabric for the same style. In fall we work with sweaters and tweed jackets, men's suits. In spring, mostly silk scarves and dresses."

Annie spends the entire day at the used clothing source, going through each piece. Once the used pieces are back at the office, she and her staff use another day hanging and matching them. One new piece requires approximately four former garments. Once everything is matched and on the rack, it all goes to cutting .

"We have to undo everything. We start by the largest size to see if it fits. The largest are the most difficult to cut. Sometimes there are holes or some parts are really used. One by one." This labor-intensive process edges up the price. "Everything we cut is a sampling price. The cutting is the part that takes the most time."

Pieces then go to the seamstress.

"She has to take all the packages and separate them by colors so she doesn't have to change the treads all the time. If she has to change the treads every time she takes one step it takes forever. Everything is done inside so we can supervise."

Then, there is the issue of cleaning. "We clean them at the end, unfortunately for us!" Though T-shirts get washed in machines before the process, others are cleaned after cutting and sewing, using an earth-friendly dry cleaner. This means less overall fabric to clean.

Voila! Now the repeat chic is ready for the rack. Right?

Sales and Distribution
Because of the relative newness of one-of-a-kind, re-used, ready-to-wear pieces, translation to retail can prove difficult.

"If one buyer is interested in buying my lines he sees the samples, but that's not what he's going to get in his store. That's the style you're going to get, but in a different color and fabric." Once a relationship is established with a buyer, Annie and her staff know what prints, colors and styles to offer.

Another issue is making the pieces work in a retail setting. "When it's your store, the people who come in know the whole concept. It's hard to mix our product with other product that's not recycled. We need to have a little corner with all of our stuff. Customers wonder, 'Why is the small pink and the medium blue?'"

Though integrating into regular retail space is a goal, a Montreal concept store may be in On and On's future. "We want to open a store in the spring. If it's good, we want to open another one in another city, and another."

The Repeat Customer
Who is the typical On and On shopper?

"Every woman, from 16 - 60. I get a lot of moms with daughters and they both buy. Either the woman who wants to be different and original with a piece that no one has, or is buying for the environmental part. Or, it's also the woman who saw us in the magazine and thought it was a great idea and wants to buy a piece. We get a lot of artists who seem to like the product a lot. Many customers want to be associated with someone who wants to do something good."

The Future of Repeat Chic
How On and On accommodate new stores and customers?

"We would prefer to keep it inside. In the beginning we tried to send production away to contractors but it didn't work. Our in-house people are used to doing the same thing, That kind of product needs to be supervised really well. Bigger production means more people under one roof. It's getting more and more clear how we're going to do it. It took us a long time to know how this works."

To save others from enduring the trial and error that has made On and On efficient, Annie is working on instruction book, "Since it's so new, and no one on the planet does it this way."

What's Next?

On and On will be featured at Paris' 2006 Ethical Fashion Show. In honor of its 10th season, the spring collection will feature the "best of" previous collections.

Annie also speaks at fashion schools every time she's asked, which is often. "I always say yes even though i'm really busy. It's not in their programs to teach how to do recycled clothing but I think they should. It's really important. I go to give the students hope, to tell them that it's possible if you beleive in soemthing, that you can do it."

We like that message, and look forward to the day when those students have Annie's instruction book to go by.