The TH Interview: Rainer Wolter, Umbrella Inside Out Winner
The TH Interview: Rainer Wolter, Umbrella Inside Out Winner
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Just about now, I.D.'s December 2006 New and Notable Issue, featuring our Umbrella Inside Out winners, is hitting newsstands. Grab a copy! We're proud as can be of all of our finalists and happy that Rainer Wolter, our fashion winner, is already making a difference in the conventional fashion world through his refusal to work with fur.
Seeing Rainer's re-fashioned umbrella dress on the runway at Paris's Ethical Fashion Show last month thrilled me (Rainer rhymes with "designer," btw). Nothing about it belied rain-protective origins as it floated down the catwalk. While laying eyes on the final design was satisfying, spending time with the man behind the garment proved genuinely inspiring. Between round tables, dinners and excursions, Rainer's uniquely principled nature, kindness and humor became as apparent as his already obvious talent. At the time, Rainer's boss, Emmett McCarthy of Project Runway fame, had decided to incorporate fur. This meant that, due to his cruelty-free leanings, Rainer would have to quit. Upon his Paris departure, he didn't know what was next for him, but trusted that something would come up. When we caught up last week, I expected to hear job search woes, but his tale took a refreshingly hopeful twist...
What do you feel most hopeful and most frustrated about as a young designer?
I feel hopeful that I may one day change the things that I see wrong with the industry and make them right. There is a very small amount of designers that I can look up to and I would love to be able to be one of them for the next generation of designers.
The most frustrating thing about being a young designer is being pressured into putting your morals and ethics to the side in order to make an extra dollar at the expense of other people or the environment we all live in.
Who are your favorite eco and non-eco designers?
I feel bad for not being able to answer this one fully. I don't really follow the designers, models and industry VIPs of eco and/or non-eco designers. I was never interested in that aspect of the industry. For me it has always been about clothing that has a strong design, great cut, superb fit and impeccable craftsmanship. I think that CLOAK would be a good example of a designer that embodies this description
What was the best part of showing at the Ethical Fashion Show?
The best part of showing at the Ethical Fashion Show was being able to meet other designers that are actually making their goals happen in addition to being a part of a new revolution in the way everyone will view fashion. When I first started to learn about ethical/sustainable fashion, I thought that I would be alone in an uphill battle. After meeting all of the great designers that were doing what I wanted to do I felt a sense of relief followed by a sense of "no more excuses… get out there and get started."
How do you feel about fur?
I feel that fur on an animal is beautiful and mesmerizing. When I see it on a human, I find it socially irresponsible, distasteful and flat out wrong. There is no need whatsoever for fur in the modern world. There is no excuse for it either.
My boss started to use fur in his line even though I told him many times of my stance on the issue. After this I sent him an e-mail asking him to rethink his decision and to research the topic.
I told him to go to furisdead.com and look at the videos and that if he didn't see a problem with it to go ahead with the fur idea. But I refused to be a part of it in any way shape or form. I would not pick up production, give input on the designs or sell the product in the store. I was ready to train someone to replace me.
After I returned from the Ethical Fashion Show he took me out to lunch and told me that he would no longer design with fur. It felt good to know that I got him to stop but I wonder if he would go back to using fur if I was to leave.
A recent post about re-purposed fur accessories generated a lot of reader debate. Would you ever re-use long-dead fur?
I would have to say no. I am all about recycling and upcycling but when you reuse fur you are in my mind saying that it is ok to use new fur. How is the consumer to know that the fur they are buying is recycled or just labeled recycled? How are people in the streets to know that the fur you are wearing is recycled? Reusing fur is just as bad as new fur designs for the whole anti-fur movement.
What's next for you?
Besides working at my job as a fashion designer, I am also creating my own Spring 07' line which will be showcased at Satya in Philadelphia. In addition I have partnered up with a close friend Susan Golembiski (who taught me the ropes of the fashion industry at a young age) and opened a store in Reading PA which will consist of young designers, ethical designers, my own sweatshop free clothing, organic and sustainable fashions, art recycled/reworked home furnishings and more. The store is called Frock, and we can be reached at frockonpenn@comcast.net.
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Comments
Rainer is from my hometown. I recently ran into him at Frock and I'm so excited to have such a thoughtful store in the area. Best of Luck to Rainer in whatever he does!
Posted by: Mim | December 1, 2006 8:43 AM
Rainer, you design is amazing, and your principles are comendable
Posted by: Proud MIL | December 1, 2006 12:53 PM
Rainer, you design is amazing, and your principles are comendable
Posted by: Proud MIL | December 1, 2006 12:53 PM
Rainer Rocks! He is not only a fantastic designer but a fantastic person. I am proud to consider him one of my closet friends. I admire him for his integrity, which is difficult to uphold in the fashion industry. But he's doing it. This is why I am certain he will succeed.
Posted by: Amber | December 2, 2006 12:51 AM
Rainer rules! He is an incredible design talent and to be commended for his ethical behavior.
Posted by: proffrank | December 4, 2006 6:12 PM
Rainer, I think your umbrella design is awesome and you have a very promising career. I do believe that like you stated, because your a young designer, you can't pick and choose who you work with. I feel that by you using your bosses name purposely in this interview, your not grateful for the opportunity that has come your way. You should really spend time soaking up all that you can learn from others and later when you have your own business you can have the freedom to put your morals in place. Keep up the good work!!!!
Posted by: ECO FRIENDLY FASHIONISTA | December 4, 2006 8:01 PM
EFF,
Rainer actually didn't mention his boss in the interview. I knew who he was and added it to the intro. As far as I can tell, Rainer is very grateful for all of the opportunities he's been given, and also remarkably driven by his conscience.
Posted by: Kyeann | December 4, 2006 8:13 PM
I know Rainer almost my whole life and he is one of my best friends, i am so proud of you Rainer and i love you!
Posted by: Deonna | December 10, 2006 2:15 PM